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'Victory' or 'peace': Russian Orthodox believers question Church's war stance
Inside a majestic domed church at one of Russia's oldest monasteries, bearded priests in red-and-gold frocks recite prayers calling for "victory" in the four-year war against Ukraine.
But on the cobbled streets of the Pskov-Pechersky grounds -- close to the border with NATO and EU member Estonia -- some Orthodox pilgrims were more concerned with bringing the conflict to an end, as soon as possible.
"The Church prays for the soldiers. We pray for only one thing right now: we pray for peace," said Valentina, a 69-year-old pensioner.
Institutionally, the Russian Orthodox Church has stood full-square behind President Vladimir Putin since he launched Russia's offensive on Ukraine in 2022.
Patriarch Kirill has called it a "holy" war and urged believers to pray "for those who with weapons in hands defend the spiritual values of Holy Rus" -- using an age-old Orthodox term covering lands the Church sees as under its spiritual leadership. That can include modern-day Ukraine.
A special prayer that must be read during Sunday liturgy asks God to "grant victory" to Russia's army and to protect its soldiers.
- 'No unity' -
Founded more than 500 years ago, the monastery is one of Russia's most revered sites, drawing thousands of pilgrims every year to its ancient monastic caves.
The brightly coloured churches and white-arched stone tunnels are protected by a walled fortress, built to keep out centuries of attacking Polish, Lithuanian and Swedish troops.
Inside one chapel, priests prayed before a richly gilded iconostasis, while women in headscarves and long skirts repeated prayers in chorus and lit candles.
For believer Valentina, the war in Ukraine has left deep scars in Russian society.
"You can feel that there is no unity in society. Society is divided. Many people do not understand what is happening," she said.
Her only consolation is prayer, she said.
"We have nothing else left."
Yulia, a 45-year-old economist, prays that her son will not be called up to fight, and for "the war to end as soon as possible."
- 'Fratricide' -
The Orthodox Church remains influential, despite signs of fading observance.
A poll published last month by Saint Tikhon's Orthodox University found 65 percent of Russians identify as Orthodox, down from 78 percent in 2011.
Of believers, nearly a third said they never attend religious services.
Priests who refused to recite the victory liturgy have faced sanctions and some anti-war clergy left Russia.
Several of the nearly 300 who signed a petition calling for an end to the "fratricidal" war faced disciplinary measures, and most rank-and-file priests have fallen in line.
Some 3,500 have visited Russian combat units to "pray for victory", patriarchate official Timofey Chaikin said.
Such fervent support for the war has raised questions among some believers.
"The Church's position saddens me," said Arina, a 42-year-old Moscow psychologist who rarely attends services and no longer goes to confession.
"Now, when I look at a priest, the first thing I think is: I wonder if he supports the war or not," she said, adding that she had "immense respect" for the few who "condemn this war."
- 'We have nothing else left' -
Galina, a 49-year-old teacher, said she had "even thought about converting to Catholicism."
Opinion polls point to growing fatigue with the war across Russian society.
In March, the independent Levada Centre -- designated a "foreign agent" by Russian authorities -- found 67 percent of Russians said they favoured negotiations with Ukraine, the highest level since the start of the war.
In the monastery's flower-filled courtyard, Andrei, 49, was dressed head-to-toe in military camouflage and walking with a cane.
Wounded at the front last year and having spent several months in hospital, he also wants the conflict to end.
"We pray for the guys, for all this to end as soon as possible and for them to come home," he said.
Two of his comrades were recently killed.
"We have nothing else left. Only prayer," he said.
Dmitry, a 45-year-old priest on a pilgrimage to Pechory said the words chosen by the Church -- "peace" or "victory" -- matter.
"If people pray for peace, there will be peace," he told AFP.
"But if people pray for the carnage to continue, there will be carnage."
F.Dubois--AMWN